SPF (Sun Protection Factor)

SPF (Sun Protection Factor) is a numerical rating system that indicates how effectively a product protects your skin from the sun's (harmful) ultraviolet (UV) rays, specifically UVB rays, which are the primary cause of sunburn.

To protect against UVA rays, which penetrate deeper and contribute to wrinkles and premature aging, look for "broad spectrum" on your sunscreen label. This will ensure protection against both UVA and UVB rays.

A note about numbers: Higher SPF generally translates to greater protection. While SPF 15 blocks about 93% of UVB rays, SPF 30 offers 97% protection, and SPF 50 reaches 98%.

However, SPF is not a perfect shield - no sunscreen blocks 100% of UV rays.

A word about SPF 15: Is IT enough?

Sun exposure
- Limited exposure: If you'll be outside for short periods (20-30 minutes) with minimal sun exposure (like walking to your car on a cloudy day), SPF 15 might offer basic protection.
- Extended exposure: However, for longer periods or higher sun intensity (like spending time at the beach on a sunny day), SPF 15 is not sufficient. It's recommended to use SPF 30 or higher for these situations.

Skin type
- Less pigmented skin: Individuals with less pigmented skin tones are generally more susceptible to sun damage and require higher SPF protection (SPF 30 or higher) even for minimal sun exposure.
- Deep pigmented skin tones: Individuals with deep pigmented skin tones typically have more melanin, which offers some natural protection against UV rays. However, sun protection is still crucial, and using SPF 15 or higher is recommended, especially for extended sun exposure.

helga's Recommendation

- You see the sun? Wear your sunscreen.
- You don't seen the sun, but it's day-time? Weare your sunscreen? (UV rays can penetrate clouds.)
- Concerned about acne, hyperpigmenation, wrinkles and fine lines, and everything in between? Wear your sunscreen - (｡•̀ᴗ-)✧.

P.S. Reapply sunscreen regularly, especially after swimming or sweating. Seek shade, wear protective clothing, and avoid the peak hours of sunlight (10 am to 4 pm) whenever possible.

UVA protection rating

Unlike SPF, which focuses solely on UVB rays, UVA protection rating focuses on the effectiveness of a product against UVA rays.

Compared to UVB rays, UVA rays penetrate deeper into the skin and are responsible for:

Premature aging: UVA rays contribute to the breakdown of collagen and elastin, leading to wrinkles, fine lines, and loss of skin firmness.

Skin cancer: While not the primary cause, UVA rays also play a role in the development of skin cancer.

Tanning: UVA rays are the primary cause of tanning, which is the body's attempt to protect itself from UV damage. However, tanning is a sign of skin damage and does not provide lasting protection.

The 5-star system
The UVA protection rating system (used in some regions like Europe and Australia) uses 1 to 5 stars.

5 stars represent the highest level of UVA protection, while 1 star indicates the least.

No UVA protection rating?
Your skincare product doesn't have a UVA protection rating? If it says it's broad spectrum then it can also offer protection against UVA rays.

helga's Recommendation

Aim for 4 or 5 stars for optimal protection.

P.S.: Even broad-spectrum sunscreens aren't perfect. Follow sun safety practices like seeking shade, wearing protective clothing, and reapplying sunscreen regularly, regardless of the UVA protection rating.

Fragrance

Fragrance is an umbrella term which refers to any natural or synthetic substance or substances used solely to impart an odor to a cosmetic product.

It was developed to protect a company's proprietary perfume blend or trade secrets under the Fair Packaging and Labeling Act of 1966.

Although it is used to impart a pleasant smell or mask odours, with prolonged us, people can become sensitised to it and develop an allergy.

helga's Recommendation

If you've noticed skin irritation when using products which contain fragrance (and you can definitively attribute the irritation to the fragrance in the product), switching to a fragrance-free alternative might be a good idea.

Whether you're sure or not, consider consulting your dermatologist if using products with fragrance is a concern.

Alcohol

Alcohol-free or no alcohol: These cosmetic labels describe skincare products that do not contain ethyl alcohol which is considered drying and irritating.

The extent to which it can be drying or irritating is dependent on the amount used within the skincare product i.e., the higher up it appears on an ingredients list, the more likely it will be drying and irritating.

However, skincare products labelled "alcohol free" or "no alcohol" may contain other alcohols, namely fatty alcohols.

These are a group of alcohols whose effects on the skin are quite different from those of ethyl alcohol. Some fatty alcohols can act as emollients (stearyl alcohol) or humectants (propylene glycol) which are beneficial in maintaining the skin barrier.

helga's Recommendation

If you've noticed skin irritation when using products which contain alcohol (and you can definitively attribute the irritation to the alcohol in the product), switching to a alcohol-free alternative might be a good idea.

Whether you're sure or not, consider consulting your dermatologist if using products with alcohol is a concern.

SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate)

SLS - Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, or Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate - is a surfactant which is deemed safe to use by a number of regulatory bodies (FDA, Cosmetics Toiletries & Fragrances Association and The Organisation for Economic Co-Operation & Development).

However, SLS has been identified as a skin irritant if left on skin for prolonged periods of time. It is unlikely to cause irritation when used in rinse-off products, but because of it's potential irritancy, it may be unsuitable for people with sensitve skin or skin conditions such as rosacea or psoriasis.

Note: Sodium Laurly Sulfate is different from Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) which is derived from SLS through a process called ethoxylation and because of this is gentler on skin than its predecessor, SLS.

helga's Recommendation

If you've noticed skin irritation when using products which contain SLS (and you can definitively attribute the irritation to the SLS in the product), switching to a SLS-free alternative might be a good idea.

Whether you're sure or not, consider consulting your dermatologist if using products with SLS is a concern.

Parabens

Parabens are (broad-spectrum) preservatives deemed safe to use by the FDA and European Union's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety.

Compared to other preservatives such as methylisothiazolinone (MIT), they are less allergenic and provide skincare products with shelf lives as long as 2 years.

However, a small study that found parabens in the tissue of breast tumors sparked concerns that there could be an association between parabens and breast cancer.

This study has been broadly discredited and the author has mentioned there is no claim made in the manuscript that the presence of parabens had caused the breast cancer.

In addition, according to "Parabens Toxicology", a 2019 review of the literature, no study of parabens has concluded that they contribute to hormone disruption, breast cancer or skin cancer in humans.

The crux: using skincare products which contain parabens is a highly likely safer alternative compared to other preservatives.

helga's Recommendation

If you've noticed skin irritation when using products which contain parabens (and you can definitively attribute the irritation to the parabens in the product), switching to a parabens-free alternative might be a good idea.

Whether you're sure or not, consider consulting your dermatologist if using products with parabens is a concern.